legend
I: insulation
I1: roof
- Doubled roof rafters (glue and screw)
- Reused old insulation from walls/ceiling (keep vent space) - removed horizontal eave flashing
- Closed eave space between rafters (keep mice out) - reused old wall/ceiling plasterboard to finish
I2: wall
- Removed old plasterboard and insulation
- Removed old plumbing and electrical wiring
- Drilled ventholes 1/2" at top ringbeam between all 2x4 - covered any holes with 1/4" galvi mesh ("landscape cloth") - put full layer of 1/4" mesh against 2x4 beams, overlapped to floor and ceiling
- Put nails in floor to grab first layer of bales - installed bales with some plaster on mesh side - applied light anchors to 2x4 from 3rd layer up (wire, screw and landscape pin)
- Finished with plaster (water, lime, sand)
I3: Ring beam basement & garage
- Insulated wood ring beams/rim
(wood has more heat loss than mason blocks)
S: stove
S1: Valve (brick) to regulate heat to chimney
S2: Fire chamber with double 3/4" copper pipe (yellow)
S3: side pocket intended for drying and some baking. Chimney was reused from old burner, moved from side of house (double wall stainless 6"inside- 8"outside diameter). Stove is placed central to the house for efficiency.
Heat to rooms over the garage is by a parallel 3/4" copper line (convection of hot water), through reused heating element (3/4" copper pipe with aluminum cooling fins). The pipe is placed parallel to the 3 central beams, air moves by convection between the floor beams over the garage (gentle radiant floor heating without water).
The copper lines allow safe passage of heat through a fire wall. The floor heating also serves as a dump line for excess heat from the stove/boiler
The space above the basement (kitchen etc) is warmed by radiant heat from the mason stove.
H: hot water
H1: Cold water sags toward stove, rises by convection (circulates without pump/ thermovalve).
H2: Hot water line 1/4" inside diameter feeds kitchen & bathroom (faster flow: short lead time, less heat loss, cleaner line).
